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Fashion has always been, in its essence, a peaceful and powerful accelerator for rights. Oftentimes, fashion has become synonymous with a silent yet powerful rebellion, for human rights and inclusion.
Surprisingly, one of the most iconic examples of fashion and rights is a story that often goes untold. We are obviously referring to when, in spring 1993, Vivienne Westwood – famous for blending fashion and rights – presented her Anglomania show.
In the show, the British Designer challenged fashion norms by placing Naomi Campbell, a black supermodel, at the heart of the stage. Not just that: she blended black people rights, Scottish rebellion, and love to advocate for inclusivity and self-determination.
Indeed, featuring the vibrant MacAndreas tartan, co-created with Scotland’s Lochcarron mill, Westwood fused political rebellion, cultural storytelling, and representation of minority groups, in a move that rippled far beyond the runway.
The British Fashion designer chose to redesign the meaning (and persecution) of tartan, as an act of love and dedication to her husband (her iconic MacAndreas tartan is indeed named after her husband) and pick the most iconic black icon to wear the garments made. An ode to diversity that was made iconic. Rebellious and marginalized groups represented together, with the utmost love, and showcasing iconic, beautiful, and unique aspects.
Why Tartan? a symbol of rebellion
Tartan, as a pattern and fabric, was once banned under the 1746 Dress Act following the Jacobite Risings, and became a badge of resistance. Indeed, people wearing tartan did symbolize the enemies of the British Crown – those who wanted to seize the throne – and were therefore imprisoned. Westwood resurrected this history on the catwalk, aligning fashion with centuries of defiance (Link)
Not just tartan, the “MacAndreas” Tartan.
Named after her husband Andreas Kronthaler, Westwood collaborated with Lochcarron to design the MacAndreas pattern, officially registered in 1993. Its bold presence was a statement of identity and artistic sovereignty
Naomi Campbell: Visibility & Representation
Casting Naomi Campbell, a Black supermodel, as the anchor of her show was more than stylistic boldness for Vivienne Westwood; it was a statement on representation, challenging Eurocentric norms in heritage fashion.
It was giving power to the once oppressed and turning them into icons of fashion and human rights.
Power of Fashion-Driven Activism
- Championing Human Rights Through Texture:
Westwood consistently used her runway to provoke thought, be it on climate, inequality, or heritage. By embedding tartan—a fabric with deep nationalist roots—she wove activism into every seam - Elevating Narratives Through Aesthetics:
The tartan gown worn by Naomi symbolized individual agency—echoing those who defied cultural bans over centuries. Westwood’s gift of the veil-like earasaid and corset disrupted conventions and amplified stories of oppressed women
Legacy in Rights, Representation, and Revolution
- Redefining Heritage Fashion:
Westwood’s tartan runway didn’t only reclaim cultural heritage—it globalized it. Today, designers like Burberry, Dior, and Loewe pay homage to her path by weaving identity into mainstream couture - Amplifying Diversity:
By centering Naomi Campbell, Westwood highlighted intersectionality—where cultural heritage, race, and gender meet. Her inclusion challenged the exclusionary norms of fashion representation. - Activism as a Fabric of Identity:
Westwood understood that wearing tartan wasn’t neutral—it was political. From Jacobite resistance to punk rebellion and Naomi’s presence, the show eloquently demonstrated fashion’s power to reclaim narratives and assert rights.
Conclusion
Westwood’s Fall/Winter 1994 show transcended fashion. It was a declaration that style is a vessel for cultural storytelling, resistance, and representation. By elevating tartan and casting Naomi Campbell, she stitched together a rich tapestry of rights: from Scotland’s defiant weavers to the strides of representation in mainstream fashion. That runway wasn’t just a fashion moment.
Rather, it was bold checks weaving history and fierce identity.
